A Few Tools for Pattern Work

I'm learning to use a French Curve when I grade a curved seam.
At first I was unclear on how to use it, but I finally realized it's just like using a straight edge,
I need to go from here to there in a gradual way, just not in a straight line.

Little seam gauges are really handy for adding a precise change in seam allowance

A double Clover Wheel (white tool on the right),
is nice for adding (or decreasing) seam allowances to patterns
Also you can pull out the wheels and make that new seam allowance different widths.

I put tracing/sewing carbon paper underneath my pattern piece,
facing up. Then I run the double Clover Wheel over whatever line.
In this example I was making a new line to make the pattern smaller.
I like the waxed sewing carbon paper.
You can also transfer the carbon to tissue (or other) pattern paper by marking on the tissue with a regular pencil. That makes less holes in the pattern paper. Different things work in different situations.

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Jeans Sewing:: Jeans'ing up for my own Blue Jeans Project

Now that I've completed my jeans-style heavy denim skirt I really feel ready to tackle a pair of traditional blue jean pants inspired by Mr. Levi and the California Gold Rush! 

What appears to be involved in creating my own jeans?

Getting the fit right 

The fit for my jeans'y-style skirt had it's challenges. For example the heavy denim hung from my body differently than the heavy twill I used to make a muslin.  But this and other issues, though time consuming, weren't overwhelming. They mostly involved getting the side seams and waistband curved right to support the weight of the fabric, a lot of trying on, pining, basting, repinning and rebasting.....

Getting the fit right on a pair of traditional jeans will be a bigger challenge. So I made the skirt, to get started with just a few jeans'y techniques before beginning jeans.

Learning or adapting sewing techniques that are different from those I use on other types of garments. 

The heavy-weight no-Lycra denim (11.5 oz.) I'm choosing for my first par of jeans, and jeans-style skirt, not only requires a jeans needle, it also feeds  through my machine differently. I've found I need to alter tension too, set the stitch length longer on both regular and topstitching, and consider my choice of thread carefully for each part of the garment. 

I'm also considering buying a walking or jeans foot.

Embellishment and Bling! 

I love the variety of stitching and hard embellishment I see on commercial jeans, particularly on the pockets. I'm on the hunt to try out different types of add-ons, and testing out both the application techniques and the washing process to keep my new jeans embellishment hanging in there. (I 'm working on a post that will be up in a few days, in regards to getting going with embellishment/bling).

Resources

Locating and making the best use of a variety of resources - classes, books, on and off-web articles. Frankly, it's easy to be distracted by too much information, and yet there's a lot of good stuff out there. I haven't found any books specifically on jeans sewing, and I'd like to have one I could just pick up for quick reference.

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Jeans Sewing - Skirting the Issue - 

Jeans-Style Skirt Terminado! / Done!

http://meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2013/09/jeans-sewing-skirting-issue.html?showComment=1378743530744#c3428728796407559024

Pinterest is a great way to both search for and save off photos and resources for jeans sewing (as well as other sewing) topics

http://www.pinterest.com/lrshimer/0-sewing-jeans-inspiration/

http://www.pinterest.com/lrshimer/0sewing-jeans-techniques/

Illustration Credit for Free Download Image
© Missjelena | Dreamstime Stock Photos &Stock Free Images