Vintage Threads: 60's Bathing Suit Plans, Don't Keep Me From Sticking to my Bustier Project

No reason a bathing suit like the one on the left
couldn't work as well today as in the early 60's!
Very flattering for many figure types too.

My best guess is that this vintage bathing suit pattern is early - mid sixties era, because you don't see this waistline much after that on a suit. The 25 cent price tag is another clue. By the late sixties, most patterns were, at least, 35 - 50 cents. The model's hairband is another clue. Those wide bands say 1963 and before to me!

As you can perhaps tell, from perusing this sewing journal, I'm hard at work on a class project sewing a bustier. It's a big project for me, and I really wanted to divert myself several times to some fun sample sewing. Before Valentine's Day hit I was sorely tempted to stop and experiment with a simple example of reverse appliqué. Wouldn't an appliquéd heart coming through a pocket square be perfect? I justified this mini-project by thinking that I could devote my February Enchanted by Sewing Audio Podcast (which I typically publish just before the end of each month) to talking about appliqué in general and then describe the reverse appliqué techniques that I would have slipped off to practice.

But I kept myself on track and continued steadily on with my bustier. I still have quite a lot of work to put into it. Stick-to-itness is one of those skills I've resolved to work on this year, whether it's sewing or regular work projects. I'm proud of myself for sticking to this and other projects.

I'm also proud of myself for not purchasing any of the potentially swim-able fabric I might use to create a similar combination for myself. Yes, I do have a fabric inventory. But adding to it when I'm in the middle of my currently challenging project wouldn't give me the confidence I need to keep at it.

That doesn't mean I can't do a little blue-sky sewing!

Blue-skying means.... I can journal about creating an imaginary bathing suit, as I'm doing now. I can imagine whether or not I would try to find a print or plain colored fabric. And question what kind of material would work best. I can also think about how best to create the pattern. The overskirt is a flared skirt. I know how to drape those now, and I have Conchita, my foam core dress form to help me. The tanks, as the bathing-suit bottoms liner is referred to on the pattern back, could be created from an underwear pattern I've previously created that I know fits well. I'd probably work on draping the bodice on my duct tape dummy, not my Uniquely You foam-core dress form, because the duct tape model is a more exact replica of my torso. I can simply have the fun of imaginary sewing, and the eventual project will be that much better.

BTW, I've also began work on my February Enchanted by Sewing podcast. That show will reflect the pleasures of a little imaginary fabric shopping without actually adding to my fabric inventory. I hope you come along for the trip :-) You can subscribe to the show notes if you want to be notified when podcast episodes are added.

Blue-Skying is just one more activity that keeps me.... 

Enchanted by Sewing!

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Resources

Enchanted By Sewing Podcast Show Notes (and iTunes link) http://enchantedbysewing.blogspot.com

Sewing My Bustier : http://www.meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2014/02/bustiers-excuse-me-arent-those-your.html

Bustiers: Excuse Me Aren't Those Your Underpinnings?

Though I turned under the neckline to envision the end result,
Lynda still felt it was too high when I put it on.
The new neckline is less round and lower.

Yes, as pretty as my vintage Tanna Lawn fabric is on this bustier....

It's really the lining.

This garment is inside-out.

The great thing is that I'll always see this Liberty print when I put this garment on!

And I'm really happy with the way it's fitting.

After this photo teacher Lynda Maynard decreased the round in the neckline some more and had me work on the hem, which will be much higher on the sides and in the back. To make sure it's not too long, I sat down with my back very straight. The goal is not to have spiral steel boning jabbing me in the groin. Which is a pretty durn good idea. Also the goal is to have a flattering hem.

I have two full pages of checklist I created to get to the point where I begin to work on the outside layer - the actual layer people will see. What you are seeing here is lining fabric applied to a sturdy layer of cutil. That cutil is where all the support of boning channels and bones will be happening. And that's what I'll be working on over the next two weeks.

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Resources

http://www.pinterest.com/lrshimer/sewingbustiersinspiration/

http://www.meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2014/01/bustier-class-pattern.html
http://www.meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2014/01/bustiers-not-corset-plus-free-printable.html
http://www.meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2014/01/bustiers-made-to-measure-altering.html
http://www.meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2014/01/bustier-help-pattern-fairies-have-ahold.html
http://www.meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2014/02/bustier-classic-underpinnings-silk.html

Bustiers: Pattern Work Still Life

The enchantment's in the details

Bustier: Classic Underpinnings - Silk Organza

Silk organza is a very stable fabric that minimizes bulk in a project. A year ago I bought six yards of this fabric. I have been using it as an invisible layer for different aspects of sewing projects as I learn new ideas. 

Back in December I used it as sew-in interfacing for my Lilacs and Liberty shirt. Tonight I cut strips of silk organza on the straight-of-the-grain that I'll be using to stay the top of the inner shell of my  bustier bodice. The strips are intended to be 1 and 1/4 inches wide (mine are a little wider at this point in time). They'll be folded lengthwise (resulting in 5/8 inch wide strips). Then I'll cut them about 1/4 inch shorter than the width of each bodice piece, which I'll be easing to the strips with hand stitches. I'll stay each piece of the bodice individually.

Using silk organza makes me feel a little glamorous.  It doesn't actually cost much more than other interfacing and stabilizers,  and makes me feel like a real seamstress!

Silk organza keeps the enchantment in my sewing!

Bustier: Help the Pattern Fairies Have Ahold of Me and Won't Let Go!

Inspired by the musings of facebook buddy Melody Kerr Gardner

Getting up earlier to work on my bustier pattern - version four that is - in drill. That's the one where I cleanup the pattern, place all the matching notches, locate the waistline, and true up the hemline. It's the one before version five. That's the one where I cut through a quarter inch above the waistline then..... 

Hunh? What did you say? Yes, I did consider getting up in the middle of the night to work on it. What is it about sewing that grabs and holds onto us and won't let us go? It's not actually the need for more garments!

You know what I mean. It's because we're simply Enchanted By Sewing!

Bustiers: Made to Measure - Altering the Pattern (Draping Skills)

A little blue-sky sewing
created this bustier:-)

Recently I posted about my imaginary bustier. This blue-sky sewing illustration (I created it as a bookmark/luggage tag) has helped me to develop a general design sense for my project for the bustier class I'm taking from Lynda Maynard* at Cañada. OK, sure my figure doesn't resemble Barbie Doll's, but still we all need an idea of what we're going for!

You may have read in this blog, that I took a draping class this last fall (2013), where I learned to create patterns using a dress form. My goal from that class is not only to occasionally create my own pattern that fits and flatters me, but also to learn to alter commercial patterns so that they work well for my own figure.

You may also recall that I did a podcast about creating my "Uniquely You" Dress Form over the summer.  There, I created my own dress form, Conchita. I'm really glad that I began learning to work with Conchita over the fall. Those experiences are coming in handy as I work on altering the Simplicity bustier pattern Lynda Maynard* recommends for students in her class. (We can chose a different pattern if we want). So far I've spent a good chunk of time over the last three weeks, working on creating and altering my version of the pattern. I sure hope I'm getting close to a flattering fit.

My dress form Conchita is helping
me to alter the Simplicity bustier pattern to fit
and flatter my figure.
Does this look like anything I'd actually
wear in public?
!!!

Working through muslin garment versions and multiple pattern variations, can really take the time. It's an exercise in patience. And does it look like anything I'd actually wear in public while I'm working through the process? You look at the illustration to the left and be my judge!

 Worth it in the long run? You bet! I was really happy with my first pair of jeans that I made in Lynda's pants drafting class in the fall.

The muslin version looked truly terrible, and for a number of weeks too! Now, I wear those jeans nearly every day, and am looking forward to making another pair once I'm done with the bustier. There's nothing as great for a garment sewist as creating clothing that is truly made to measure.

~ ~ ~

Resources

Laurel's Bustiers Board on Pinterest : http://www.pinterest.com/lrshimer/sewingbustiersinspiration/

And stop by and check out some of my other sewing boards! http://www.pinterest.com/lrshimer/

Cañada College Fashion Program, Redwood City, CA
http://canadacollegefashion.com

*Lynda Maynard
http://canadacollegefashion.com/blog/2013/11/instructor-lynda-maynard/

Bustiers: Class Pattern
http://www.meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2014/01/bustier-class-pattern.html

Bustiers: Not a Corset! (Class)
http://www.meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2014/01/bustiers-not-corset-plus-free-printable.html

Creating Dress Forms: An Audio Podcast About the two different dress forms I created in 2013
http://www.meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2013/09/ench-by-sew-12-creating-dress-forms.html

Draping: But What Is It?  -One of several postings I wrote about draping last fall:
http://www.meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2013/11/draping-but-what-is-it-pattern-altering.html

Ench By Sew-16 Quinceañeras, Weddings and More – A Local Sewing Business

An Interview with Sewing Business Owner Esther

Hey! 
The latest Enchanted by Sewing Podcast has been published!

Two Ways to Listen
Option I)You can listen to the show right on the web by clicking on the this link
~ OR ~
Option ii)  Click on this link to iTunes  to download this and other Enchanted by Sewing shows to your mobile device (iPhone, Android, etc.) free from iTunes
Did I miss any links mentioned in the show? If so, please post here and let me know, or else email me EnchantedBySewing AT gmail DOT com
~ ~ ~
Quinceañeras, Weddings and More – Tocci, Quinces and More - A Local Sewing Business 

This month’s show is an interview with Esther, owner of a local sewing business, Tocci Quinces & More. 

Highlights of our conversation include:

- How Esther learned to sew on the job sewing in Mexico for a maquiladora in Mexico City and how her desire for a different life for herself and her daughters, motivated her to come to the US, where she trained for and worked at medical jobs for several years

- Eventual acquisition of her business

- Esther’s dreams, experiences and plans for the sewing and business education, that are helping her to grow her business.

- Flights of fancy from both ladies in regards to sewing inspiration for specialized Mexican techniques and garments

~ ~ ~ 

Resources

ma·qui·la/ maquiladora

maquila is 
another term for maquiladora.


 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maquiladora

 An excerpt….

“In Mexico, a maquiladora (Spanish pronunciation: [makilaˈðoɾa]) or maquila (IPA: [maˈkila])[1] is manufacturing operations in a free trade zone (FTZ), where factories import material and equipment on a duty-free and tariff-free basis for assembly, processing, or manufacturing and then export the assembled, processed and/or manufactured products, sometimes back to the raw materials' country of origin.

Currently about 1.3 million Mexicans are employed in one or more of approximately 3,000 maquiladoras 

The term maquiladora, in the Spanish language, refers to the practice of millers charging a maquila, or "miller's portion" for processing other people's grain 

A More Political View of Maquilas

http://worldsavvy.org/monitor/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=684&Itemid=1147

Ester’s first home was Chiapas –  just north of Guatamala: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiapas

She then moved to Mexico City

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mexico_City

Esther's business in Fremont CA is Tocci Quinces and More http://www.tocciquinces.com

An excerpt from her business site….Welcome to Tocci Quinces & More your One Stop Wedding & Quinceaneras Shop!

Tocci Quinces & More is a Wedding & Quinceaneras Shop focused on Wedding Gowns & Quinceaneras Gowns, Favors, Ribbons, Decoration and much more. Your wedding day is one of the most special days of your life. Trust us to create the most beautiful Wedding Gowns & Quinceaneras Gowns for your special day.

Our products and services include:

Wedding Gowns & Quinceaneras Gowns | Favors | Ribbons
Decoration | Alterations | Ribbon
Imprinting |  Personalized Favors

We provide guaranteed work with complete customer satisfaction. We have been in this business for more than 2 year.

We serve in Bay Area, Tri-City Area, Newark, Fremont and Union City, CA.

We also offer:

Wedding Gowns, Wedding Decoration, Wedding Accessories, Quinceanera Dresses, Quinceanera Gowns, Ribbon

3768 Peralta Blvd,

Fremont, CA 94583

(888)610-9107

- About Quinceañeras  NOTE there are a number of Latino communities in the San Francisco Bay Area. Just because people speak Spanish, and have some common ancestral roots in Spain or Portugal, and come from Latin America, doesn’t mean they follow the same traditions and celebrate occasions in the same ways.

WHAT is a quincinera?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quincinera

A few excerpts….

“Quinceañera, also called fiesta de quince años, fiesta de quinceañera, quince años or simply quince, is the celebration of a girl's fifteenth birthday in parts of Latin America and elsewhere in communities of people from Latin America.”

Quinceañera (pronounced: [kin.se.aˈɲe.ɾa]; feminine form of "fifteen-year-old"), also called fiesta de quince años, fiesta de quinceañera, quince años or simply quince, is the celebration of a girl's fifteenth birthday in parts of Latin America and elsewhere in communities of people from Latin America. This birthday is celebrated differently from any other birthday, as it marks the transition from childhood to young womanhood. The celebration, however, varies significantly across countries, with celebrations in some countries taking on, for example, more religious overtones than in others.

In Brazil, a Portuguese-speaking country, the same celebration is called festa de debutantes, baile de debutantes or festa de quinze anos. In the French Caribbean and French Guiana, it is called fête des quinze ans.

In regards to the discussion of LANGUES Laurel and Esther encounter in their communities

Tagalog is one of the primary languages spoken in the Phillipines. There is are sizable enclaves of people in the San Francisco Bay Area, who have migrated from the Phillipines.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tagalog_language

Mexican Cultural Techniques and Specialized Styles We Discussed

Corte y confección

http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corte_y_confección

Foklorico Skirts/Baile Foklorico

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baile_Folklorico

Beautiful foklorico costume photos! http://www.formulamexicana.com/?p=1846

Huichol ( pronounced \wē-ˈchōl\) are a member of an American Indian people of the mountains between Zacatecas and Nayarit, Mexico

Huichol textiles (embroidery and weavings)

http://www.artscare.org/huichol6.htm

An excerpt from http://www.artscare.org/huichol1.htm

The Huichol people live along the Sierra Madre Occidental mountains in the Mexican states of Jalisco and Nayarit. Traditionally, Huicholes live in communities called ranchos, where everyone shares life's responsibilities. These ranchos are structured around ceremonial centers and the growing cycles of crops. For the Huicholes, life is rich and prosperous when the community is healthy, the harvest is successful, and its people are in harmony. The participation of all members of the society foster this complex, social fabric through communal work, prayer, and ritual which maintains this harmony and balance for generations to come. How different this is from an urban society where materialistic gain can seem to be an obvious indicator of a successful community. However, even the Huichol are not immune to the impact of other cultures. Over the years, many Huicholes have moved to the cities in search of education, economic support, and medical care for their families. These cities include the capitols of Tepic, Guadalajara, and Mexico City.

Archaeological discoveries can place the Huichol people in their current environment for the past 1,600 years….. continued at http://www.artscare.org/huichol1.htm

Esther bought her silk cotton fabric at Thai Silks. Laurel loves this business too. http://www.thaisilks.com

Thai Silks isn’t paying me to promote their business. I just included my latest newsletter promotion. Great local and online business with long-time presence in the sewing community.  High quality silk fabric.

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http://www.thaisilks.com/promo.php?p=21 

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Thank you for your business!!!
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