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Sunday, May 24, 2015

Ench By Sew-32: Parlez Vous French Pattern Drafting?

The May Enchanted By Sewing, Episode 32 Audio Show is Up ! 

Listening Option 1: Download from iTunes
Click on this link to iTunes  to download this and other Enchanted by Sewing shows to your mobile device (iPhone, Android, etc.) free from iTunes

Listening Option 2: Direct Download/Listen on the Web

I first signed up for Lynda Maynards' French Pattern Drafting Class to help me improve my fit and alteration of commercial patterns and was surprised to find that Lynda's class opened my eyes to the idea of drafting my own patterns - an aspect of sewing I’d never expected I’d get involved with, and frankly considered beyond my skills.

Studying with a teacher like Lynda and being inspired to try new things – that’s the kind of thing that keeps me, enchanted by sewing!

1) Pensamientos Primeros – The Art of French Pattern Drafting

My Pattern Work Postings

Early Days in Pattern Drafting Class - Includes Kenneth King Link http://meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2015/02/drafting-my-back-block-learning-pattern.html

More from Class http://meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2015/02/french-pattern-draftingmoulage-first.html 

 Using My Sloper and Moulage to Draft Patterns

     Parlez Vous Flared Skirt? http://meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2015/04/pattern-work-parlez-vous-flared-skirt.html

Pattern Work on Pinterest:Links to many pattern drafting and design resources  https://www.pinterest.com/lrshimer/0-sewing-pattern-work/

2) Technicos  - On Wearing Ease Going from a Moulage to a Sloper and Back Again

3) Pensamientos Finales – My sloper...A garment for any occasion?

Saturday, May 16, 2015

Parlez Vous Wearing Ease - Moulage to Sloper and Back Again


Moulage (Blue Dots) To Sloper (Purple Lines)
And Back Again

Drop 1/8”
-> shoulder ¼”
Raise 1/8” + -> ¼”
Out ½”
Out 5/8”
Out 3/8 – ½”
Out ½”
Drop 1/2”
-> shoulder ¼”
Raise 1/8” + -> ¼”
Out 3/8”
Out 5/8”
Out 3/8 – ½”
Out ½”

I used my moulage pattern (blue dots) I created from Lynda Maynard's French Pattern Drafting class to draft my Damson Plumm Private Eye tee shirt. I used my sloper pattern (purple lines) to create the straight skirt pattern I'm using for a denim skirt I'm currently sewing.

1 (CF/CB)     
 2 (shoulder point –neck)       
3 (shoulder point – armhole side)       
 4 (midway armhole curve)       
5 (end of armhole below arm)     
 6 (armhole point to waist)    
7 (waist to full hip)

Monday, May 11, 2015

Blue Sky/Blue Check Inspiration Shirt - Anthropologie

Blue Sky Sewing is soooo much easier than the embellished denim skirt I've been working on!

My daughter and I were no-spend shopping at Anthropologie over the weekend. This shirt caught my eye. Wouldn't it be great to create a garment along these lines?

Yes, I think I would button at least a few of the buttons!

Sunday, May 3, 2015

Antique-Retro Threads: Plum-Purple Pocket Dress - Mid Twentieth Century


 I have  been thinking about adding embellishments to basic patterns lately, as I've been working on creating a rather
challenging embellishment on the straight skirt I've been sewing, using a pattern I created from my sloper. I haven't blogged about that project yet, other than a posting describing how I created the pattern.  

My own embellishment work got me thinking about this plum-purple frock,  that caught my eye at  the exhibit From Rationing to Rationing at the Museum of Vancouver. I saw it on our visit to Vancouver Canada in the fall of 2014. Yup, that's the visit, for which, I created my audio show  Embellishment Via Vancouver B.C.
 ~ ~ ~ 
Pensamientos/Thoughts for this plum-purple pocket dress...

Fashion doesn't necessarily move as fast in real life as it does on the pages of a magazine. I recall dresses from my own childhood, in the 1960's, that harked back to many of the design elements in this dress, which is probably an end-of-the war, or just post-war creation.
* The fitted bodice is very mid-twentieth century
* Dainty collars added a popular innocent look
* No-button buttons were a simple embellishment many home sewers added. Buttons were often recycled from worn-out garments, so sewists had them around
* Short puffed sleeves stayed in style for several decades, certainly through the seventies
* Yokes also stayed popular through the late seventies
* Lots of pretty edging and trims like these, served up on plain fabric backgrounds,  are really reminiscent of the mid-century, before the mid-sixties, when dresses got much shorter and styles became all about crazy prints. Sewing up prints was in vogue, because printed fabrics were suddenly much more affordable and available.

And what about that pocket!

I created a similar pocket on my favorite black velvet bath robe, a few years back, by angling out the sides of a rounded pocket pattern. This one looks even more full. I must try fooling around with a pocket pattern to get a similar effect.

The pocket also  dips down in a heart shape in the center. And what about that beautiful embroidered velvet trim! It really tops off the pocket nicely.
* Lots of detail on the yoke was again very popular. It works because of the plain-colored background, even this peach colored lace can be over-embellished. I think that trim worked with ribbon is called insertion.
* Dark colored velvet bows at the neckline have a very mid-twentieth-century look as well. Doris Day often wore bows like this in her movies, especially black ones. Velvet bows were also popular as hair adornments. That was a signature style for Rosemarie in the Dick Van Dyke show, of course. Well into the sixties we could buy velvet bows on hair clips at the 5 and 10 cent store. I guess that would be the 5 and 10 dollar store now!

Reflecting on styles that affected fashions from my childhood, and considering embellishment elements that still work today - That's the kind of thing that keeps me ...
Enchanted By Sewing!