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Saturday, June 25, 2016

Ench By Sew-44-Part 2: Embellished and Printed Fabric, Reflections on an Exhibit at the Met in NYC

The Third Knot”. Interlaced Roundel with Eight Wreaths and a Scalloped Shield in its Center  - After Leonardo - Before 1521

Click on this link in iTunes  to download the 44'rd episode of the Enchanted by Sewing Audio Podcast,  recorded in June
of 2016. Or listen directly on the web by clicking on this link.

This month's show is, PART 2 of Embellished and Printed, Reflections from a Historical Exhibit from an Historical Exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City - Fashion and Virtue: Textile Patterns and the Print Revolution, 1520–1620

In this Show
*Primeros Pensamientos/First Reflections – Chatting about my sewing and a little more

My Kensington Gardens Shirt - Terminado!/Finished! http://meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2016/06/kensington-gardens-shirt.html
*D’accurdo, tambien/OK also 
       And a little more /y un poco más
At work on Pinto another summer shirt http://meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2016/06/fitting-pinto-m6076sleeveless-princess.html

*Entonces/Then Back to the exhibit at the Metropoliton Museum of Art in NYC -  Fashion and Virtue: Textile Patterns and the Print Revolution, 1520–1620

Web Resources 
I mentioned the Tanna Lawn fabric for my cur.rent sewing project, that I purchased a few years back from Liberty of London. In this podcast "Laurel Loves London" I talked about a trip to Liberty

One of the items in the exhibit we visit in this cast comes from the Victoria and Albert in London (V&A). Below is a link to a walk I shared with you around the fashion gallery at the V&A.

-Fashion and Virtue: Textile Patterns
and the Print Revolution, 1520–1620

“The Third Knot”. Interlaced Roundel with Eight Wreaths and a Scalloped Shield in its Center
Artist:
Albrecht Dürer (German, Nuremberg 1471–1528 Nuremberg)
Artist:
After Leonardo da Vinci (Italian, Vinci 1452–1519 Amboise) (or workshop)
Date:
1521 before
http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/388791

- Link to the 10th century block printed lions - that I think would make a great quilt block - Spoonflower would be my ticket! http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/448647

Ancient Egypt print block

Many wonderful links turn up when I searched on 'printed textiles' at the Met

"Nineteenth-Century European Textile Production





Saturday, June 18, 2016

Fitting Pinto: (M6076)Sleeveless Princess-Seamed Shirt - Perfect for Summer Temperatures

The word "pinto" in Spanish does indeed refer to a specific kind of bean
It also means "spotted" or "speckled" !

Last fall I first fitted a sleeveless version of M6076. I called my first version of this shirt Western Winds. I've been reaching for my Western Winds shirt repeatedly in these warmer days. It's on the wash line every time I hang up clothes. To prevent fading I machine wash my own-sewn garments but I hang them to dry on plastic hangers on our clothes line . There is really no more time involved, as the hangers can go straight into the closet once dry.

There is no sleeveless version in the pattern, so I worked out where I wanted the armscye to be cut. A french curve ruler really helps with that. I did create a muslin for that original version.

I'm finding that, despite marking up my first-version master pattern tracing and markup of the master pattern, as well as that muslin, I'm still needing to do a lot of basting on Pinto, both with a basting stitch and safety pins. I'm hoping the altered cutting and stitching lines I just made to the last version of the pattern will help me make the next version of this shirt more quickly! I marked all alteration cut and stitch lines in a specific marker color and dated them too. One thing I've learned about altering patterns is to do that. I've also learned that different fabric, in a fitted garment, need slight differences in the amount of seam allowance.

My side and shoulder seams are still basted. Next step is to sew over them with a regular stitch length.

As you can see I also haven't yet added the facing or collar. To make sure the various seams in this fitted shirt hung right I safety pin basted the two front pieces up the center front line for the time being. I can still pull the shirt over my head for fitting.

~ ~ ~

Completed Western Winds - Last Version of this shirt http://meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2015/10/western-winds-terminadofinished.html

Saturday, June 11, 2016

Kensington Gardens Shirt - Terminado!/Finished!

Hey look what I finally finished!
Love wearing it too. Great over jeans and fitted trousers.
I have not completed a lot of sewing recently, but I have been making a concerted effort to get more sewing time in.  Because I just missed time at the machine, as well as finishing and enjoying new garments. 
I call it my Kensington Gardens Shirt in honor of that wonderful park in London, where you find the Peter Pan statue. The contrast fabric is William Morris Strawberry Thief. The green material is also Liberty of London, but I don’t know what design it is, or if it’s one of the old classics like the Strawberry Thief.

I had this shirt cut out probably two years ago  - from my No. 1 Lady's Detective Agency pattern (much altered B5526). After cutting it out, I tucked it away and more or less forgot about it.  

A few months back, I dug it out because - hey I can't let Liberty of London fabric go to waste! I have been sewing it off and on for something like two or three months. Just tiny snips of time. Finally I pushed myself to put in blocks of time, and finally it is done. Hooray!

This project has really reminded me you have to have confidence about resolving sewing challenges - I had more than one.

I had an awful lot of problems with things like laying the button holes out iregulalrly (yup I measured - but then I did something funny....) - so I added more buttons in between, sewed the right strip on top of the left, and now all the buttons are decorative. I pull it over my head to put it on, and that works just fine. 

I really disliked this shirt for a while. I altered a lot of aspects of the pattern style, and it was cut too big and loose for the floaty fabric-  but now I like it a lot. Isn't that always amazing when a project goes from potential wadder to wardrobe enhancer? I just have to be careful not to wear it over full pants because of the loose cut. 

Part of my other challenges were... the Liberty of London Tanna Lawn material is very fluid so I added quilt batting to the collar (used the collar band only) and the part down along the front facing because even with interfacing it was limp. Then I did some very simple machine straight stitch quilting. 

At one point I considered taking some waist tucks, which looked like they'd work out as well - like I did on the purple check Kaufaman gingham plus Liberty of London Mauverina print contrasts using this same shirt pattern about 2.5 years ago.  But I started to get used to the looseness, and am now happy with it. Can always take those tucks down the road if I change my mind.

Oh - I also changed the cuffs from the original under elbow cuff with placket , to a simple band of the Strawberry Thief that I sewed in print side upside down, then seamed along either (pressed) edge, then ran wide elastic in and turned up. After that I simply sewed the rest of the underarm seam. (I have a feeling I did something more permanent to make that cuff stay in place.....) I always push my shirt sleeves up, so 3/4 sleeves are better for me. And these cuffs hit me just right, a touch below the elbow, or I can push the elastic up just above the elbow,  if I'm in the mood.

Collar and front band are stabilized with both quilt batting and fusible interfacing
How about that pin?
Who knows how long that's been floating around in my costume jewelry collection.
It really helps make the shirt.


Saturday, June 4, 2016

Garment Quilting - Inner/Under Layers - Kensington Gardens Shirt - Technicos

Last time I posted about how I worked on the quilting for my Kensington Gardens shirt - using both hand basting and machine sewing.

I chose to quilt for structuring/embellishing the front of this shirt because of the very fluid nature of the Liberty of London Tanna Lawn fabric.

For structuring beneath the quilting I first fused a light weight interfacing onto the inner side of the interfacing - that's the purple/blue/green Strawberry thief print.

I then added a light weight fusible batting on the main body of the fabric - the green and cream floral print.

I use a half width of packaged seam binding tape to give a neat finish to my interior edges. I'll do the same thing with the hem. Usually one package - with the full length sliced down the middle - is enough for the entire interior. It goes all the way around the front facing, collar facing and all along the hem. The bias nature of the tape works well around curves. When I get to a point, I can fold a point, and because I've sliced the tape in half, there's not to much fabric. I get a pretty crisp hem that way.

Saturday, May 28, 2016

Front Quilting - Kensington Gardens Shirt - Technicos

I'm calling this my Kensington Gardens Shirt, because the fabric came from London. I love visiting Kensington Gardens and always return to see the Peter Pan Statue. The trim is William Morris Strawberry Thief. Unfortunately I didn't note the name the green print.

I love floaty, fluid Tanna Lawn fabric from Liberty of London, but in a weighty shirt,  like my tried and true No. 1 Ladie's Detective Agency pattern, it means that the material drags in the front in the facing and edge of collar band. So I've been quilting the mandarin collar and the front interfacing to give them some structure.

I also edge-stitched the front inner edge with a leaf stitch on top of a blanket stitch. The extra layers of thread are giving it more stability.

Glad I machine basted initially, because I had problems with the fabric pulling funny. So I used my seam ripper to remove those stitches, hand basted and then machine stitched again to get a better lay down of this quilted area. I also stretched a little bit by hand and sewed very slowly. I used a really long machine stitch for the quilting because of all the layers.

Another thing that helped when I tried again was using my teflon sewing machine foot, instead of my Viking 'B' foot (for heavier fabric). The teflon skates over the surface a lot better and doesn't seem to pull. I still have to go slowly and stretch a little as I go.

You'll notice I used masking tape to get straight lines when I hand basted. Originally I used posit tape, but it was not adhesive enough. Also when I tried leaving the masking tape in place and machine stitching along the edge, the stickum on the tape somehow got in there. So I now vote masking tape for hand basting/quilting only.
* * *
Next time I'll show a bit about the under layers 

Thursday, May 19, 2016

Ench By Sew-43-Part 1: Embellished and Printed Fabric, Reflections on an Exhibit at the Met in NYC



Click on this link in iTunes  to download the 43'rd episode of the Enchanted by Sewing Audio Podcast,  recorded in May
of 2016. Or listen directly on the web by clicking on this link.

This month's show is, Embellished and Printed, Reflections from a Historical Exhibit from an Historical Exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City - Fashion and Virtue: Textile Patterns and the Print Revolution, 1520–1620


In this Show

* Primero Pensamientos/First Reflections - 
I reflect on this exhibit at the Met and also on how the exhibits I saw there, relate to my own current sewing and  my interest in patterned fabrics  history.

*Entonces/Then

#FashionandVirtue

We go to the exhibit together. Remember that this is only Part 1 of this exhibit. I’ll take you back with me again, next month in the June show, for Part 2.

Web Resources 
I mentioned the Tanna Lawn fabric for my cur.rent sewing project, that I purchased a few years back from Liberty of London. In this podcast "Laurel Loves London" I talked about a trip to Liberty

One of the items in the exhibit we visit in the current podcast comes from the Victoria and Albert in London (V&A). Below is a link to a walk I shared with you around the fashion gallery at the V&A.

-Fashion and Virtue: Textile Patterns
and the Print Revolution, 1520–1620

- Link to the 10th century block printed lions - that I think would make a great quilt block - Spoonflower would be my ticket! http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/448647

Ancient Egypt print block

Many wonderful links turn up when I searched on 'printed textiles' at the Met

"Nineteenth-Century European Textile Production




Tuesday, May 17, 2016

From My Journal - Mother of the Bride - Sewing Daydreams

Looking down the road to June of 2017.
The party will be at a lovely ranch in San Luis Obispo.
My daughter's wedding colors are blush and champagne. Her attendants will be wearing those colors.
For myself I'm thinking about dark rose, dark peach or gold

A sheer float'y overdress? Maybe I'll use the pattern I created for my Fiona the Irish Laurel dress (green linen below) - except I'll want to add 3/4 or elbow length sleeves.
Colored lace or a lovely sheer colored voile perhaps?

Somewhat high neck - or boat neck straight across. Dress below will be a scoop neck. Pearls will nest above.

Length of both over and under dresses - I'm thinking knee length. Show off those legs!
But tea length would look romantic.....

I have my nice well fitting straw hat. May want to re trim it. Or visit Wayne's studio for a hat workshop, and make a new hat based on  dress fabric scraps.

Clarks shoes - dressy low heeled sandals. Comfortable and cute too. I have two pair, but the colors are probably wrong. Oh durn, will need new shoes!


Beneath the sheer overdress I'm thinking of a simply shaped dress made from my sloper pattern. Similar to the above line art - but not quite as fitted.

Sleeveless? Cap sleeves? Quarter sleeves?

Plain colored silk or rayon? (Linen?) Silk dupioni or similarly draping polyester fabric?

Color same color/tone as the sheer overdress.

A nicely scooped neckline on this dress beneath.

.....

Either my long baroque pearls tied in a flapper knot, or my regular nice-string-of-pearls. I have a couple of different long strings of pearls, so I could see what color goes best with the dress.