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Wednesday, November 7, 2012

The Lady Wears Trousers: Elastic Waist Pants Checklist


Abbreviations
Right Sides (RS)
Wrong Sides (WS)

Notes:
 a. Mark each leg front, front, back, back. I like to pin a piece of posit tape marked 'F' or 'B' on each leg. It sounds simple, but those legs can get confusing
b. Use Continuous Stitching(CS) whenever possible. It helps keep track of all four legs as well as the usual benefits of C.S.
 Checklist
1.  Sew Inseam pockets
2.  Front legs to back legs, Right Sides (RSs) together.
3.  Create two separate legs
1.           Sew both side seams of each leg separately (continuous stitching is a good idea)
2.           Sew both inseams of each leg separately
(continuous stitching is a good idea)

4.   With one leg RS out and the other leg WS out, slip the RS out leg INSIDE the WS out leg.
5.   Stitch entire crotch seam
6.  Press
7.  Put pants Rs out
8.  Waistband
1.           Put pants on and tie a piece of elastic or string around waist at natural waistline. Good time to use actual elastic waistbanding too. Try 4-5 inches less than actual waist and see how everything looks in the mirror.
2.            Mark natural waistline using chalk . I also had success folding the ws over the top of the wide elastic waistbanding (not the way it actually will go on!),  safety pinning it front and back on myself, then pressing in crease after I took them off, and marking that crease (on the inside).
9.  Check, is there sufficient casing depth for elastic width used? Add extra strip along casing edge if needed. Twill tape or self fabric
10.      Press actual casing in place
11.       Slip elastic through, safety pin and  eyeball fit.
12.      Measure actual waistband elastic Try 4 inches less than actual because of stitching through center will stretch it out
13.      Sew casing fold, leaving elastic gap
14.      Pull elastic through Safety. Pin well and check fit
15.      When fit ok safety pin or baste through long center
16.      Check fit again
17.      Sew edges of elastic together butted together or lapped over, using zig zag stitch.
18.      Sew along center of elastic all around waist to give doubled look
19.      Hem
1.           Fold up, press and pin. Try on with clogs to eyeball hem.
2.           Turn in quarter inch fold at raw edge and sew that or finish the edge if not turning under. On linen pants I didnt turn under. On courderoy pants I sewed on seam tape. Both avoided a bulky look
3.           Hand stitch hem in place for linen pants . Fused stitchwitchery between the two WS’s on the courderoy pants.


* I take sewing classes in the Cañada College Fashion Department, Redwood City, California

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