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Saturday, November 3, 2012

The Lady Wears Trousers: Inseam Pocket Checklist

Inseam Pockets
Elastic Waist Pants Under Construction
The long strip is the Stay for the garment front
The pocket and stay are cut from "Drill"
The Leash running from the top of the Drill pocket
up into the waistband is cut from Silk Organza - sturdy yet light

* 1. Notes 
* 2. Checklist

1. Notes
1.   Pocket bags can be cut any shape that works for person wearing. Make sure they are cut deep enough!
2.   Remember to add extension to pant front and back when CUTTING OUT pattern
3.   Adding extension to front and back of pants (skirt) helps match up where pocket bag fits in better (for me) than notches
4.   Use continuous stitching wherever possible
5.   Remember to mark F and B and Right Sides (RS) of all four pieces
6.   Cut pocket leash from Silk Organza for front of pocket only. This will tie into the waistband, will not add bulk and keep pocket in place
7.   This is also an excellent time to stay the fork of the crotch (fronts only)

2. Inseam pocket checklist

1.  Cut stays from selvage edge or folded muslin strip at least an extra inch above and below
1.           Make sure opening fits hand At least six inches wide

2.  Reinforce front and backs along pocket opening an inch or two above and below hand opening
1.           Sew Stay openings to fronts and backs
3.  Press stays
4.  Pin all four pocket bags carefully
1.           Eyeball check both fronts to backs, make sure it all seems to be laying correctly for the garment
2.           Sew all four pocket bags to fronts and backs. Use a 3/8 Seam Allowances (SA)
5.  Press SA
1.           Towards pockets
2.           With Pockets facing out
3.           Press each SA open
6.  Grade front SAs only
7.  FiNISH seam edges
8.  Hand baste front pocket bags to back along across opening
9.  Sew side seams above and below
10.      Reinforce stressnpoints
11.      Press step three
12.      Sew pocket bags
13.      Deal with extended leash here. BASTE to waistline marking
14.      Catch front seam in stitching
15.      Seam finish edges
16.      Clip bottom, back SA to but not through
17.      Press open below clip
18.      Press pocket towards garment
19.      Catchup pocket leash with basting in waist area

* I take sewing classes in the Cañada College Fashion Department, Redwood City, California

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