Inseam Pockets
* 1. Notes
* 2. Checklist
1. Notes
1.
Pocket bags can be cut any
shape that works for person wearing. Make sure they are cut deep enough!
2. Remember
to add extension to pant front and back when CUTTING OUT pattern
3.
Adding extension to front and
back of pants (skirt) helps match up where pocket bag fits in better (for me)
than notches
4.
Use continuous stitching
wherever possible
5.
Remember to mark F and B and
Right Sides (RS) of all four pieces
6.
Cut pocket leash from Silk Organza for front
of pocket only. This will tie into the waistband, will not add bulk and keep
pocket in place
7.
This is also an excellent time to stay the fork of the crotch (fronts only)
2. Inseam pocket checklist
1.
Cut stays from selvage edge or
folded muslin strip at least an extra inch above and below
1.
Make sure opening fits hand At
least six inches wide
2.
Reinforce front and backs
along pocket opening an inch or two above and below hand opening
1.
Sew Stay openings to fronts
and backs
3.
Press stays
4.
Pin all four pocket bags
carefully
1.
Eyeball check both fronts to
backs, make sure it all seems to be laying correctly for the garment
2.
Sew all four pocket bags to
fronts and backs. Use a 3/8” Seam
Allowances (SA)
5.
Press SA
1.
Towards pockets
2.
With Pockets facing out
3.
Press each SA open
6.
Grade front SAs only
7.
FiNISH seam edges
8.
Hand baste front pocket bags
to back along across opening
9.
Sew side seams above and below
10.
Reinforce stressnpoints
11.
Press step three
12.
Sew pocket bags
13.
Deal with extended leash here.
BASTE to waistline marking
14.
Catch front seam in stitching
15.
Seam finish edges
16.
Clip bottom, back SA to but not through
17.
Press open below clip
18.
Press pocket towards garment
19.
Catchup pocket leash with basting in waist area
* I take sewing classes in the Cañada College Fashion Department, Redwood City, California
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