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Wednesday, August 28, 2013

Jeans Sewing: Skirting the Issue - WAISTing Time

I have been spending quite a lot of time with my jeans-style denim skirt waistband. And I'm definitely not WAISTing my time. it seems mighty important that I do so.

As you may recall from other postings in my "Jeans Sewing: Skirting the Issue" theme, I'm using this project to learn skills that will help me when I work on sewing my first pair of jeans. There's a lot to learn, and I don't expect I"ll get it all down before I start my actual jeans sewing project. But whatever I can take away with me, will stand me in good stead with that first pair.

Here are some issues I've worked on, not all of which I've resolved.

* Given the weight of the denim (11 oz - heavy weight) do I interface or not? I went ahead and did so.

* Two layers of this weight denim seems like too much. I lined one side of the waistband with a nice thin cotton print (check out the roses)

* Ugh! Two heavy denim seams at the waist and then you add in foldover bits from the edge of the waistband ... How many layers of denim is that? !!!!  I've been doing a lot of scissor trimming after seaming,  to attempt to cut back on additional bulk in this zone, but there's a limit as to how much I can cut away without just cutting off the whole waistband. This is something to ask around about.

* Getting the waistband to meet properly in front - waist seam to waist seam and the tops at the same height is no easy feat. Is it just me? I have been working on what sometimes seems like an endless loop... baste, try on, unpick, re-baste,  try on, unpick.... repeat steps until.... OK I thinnnnkkkk I've got it! It's worth working to get it right.

Next on the agenda is adding the rivets on the pockets, and the jeans button on the waistband. After all the fussing over getting the waistband to meet right, I sure hope I get the buttonhole centered properly over the button! 

After that the hem. I've already finished the raw edge on the bottom of the skirt and pinned it in place. I still need to try it on and eyeball it.

I've also got several long topstitching threads hanging around in a lot of places, waiting to run through a needle and take through to the back side. It's challenging figuring out at what points to topstitch the different parts, especially on the waistband. Some of it (like on the side seams) had to be done before other garment construction steps.

On the waistband, however, I topstitched too soon. Well, so... a little bit of my topstitching isn't totally continuous. I wouldn't be surprised if the same things happen with my test garment jeans, but once I repeat the process with them, moving onto a second and third pair, I'll start to learn when I can continuously topstitch without being likely to have to release some of the threads.

I was planning to work on cute back pockets and belt loops, like real jeans ones, but frankly I just want to finish this puppy up! I'm kidding myself that I could add those puppies later, but I bet I won't. I've got my Lilacs and Liberty shirt to finish, as well as several knit tops to create - hey the denim skirt cries out for those toppers. I'm also taking a pants drafting class at Cañada, where I'll be drafting my own jeans pattern. So I'll  have another opportunity to get on with those quintessential jeans additions in the not-too-distant future.

Working on my jeans-sewing skill set is almost like being a new sewer. You know what that does for me, right? Yep, it keeps me....
 Enchanted by Sewing!

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