Technicos Bustier: Dem Bones

This inner shell layer of the bustier is made from
one layer of cutile (heavy white) and a another of lining, fabric
Lining's the antique blue flower Liberty Tana Lawn print

Dem Bones, Dem Bones gonna walk around.
Dem Bones, Dem Bones gonna walk around.

Dem Bones, Dem Bones gonna walk around.

Oh hear the name of the Lord!

You just know that old spiritual* tune has been buzzing around in my head, while I've been working on adding spiral steel bones to my bustier project.

I created the boning channels from
cutile fabric cut on the bias
I used two side by side 1/4" spiral steel bones
in each channel
For curved channels - use three bones.

After sewing all the seams and fitting more times than I want to recall, then it's time to sew in the boning channels. First I sewed them down the seams, then I interspersed between the seams with more boning channels.

The bones are placed no further than 3" apart all along the shell. It's possible to add a bust shape into the front too, but I had created a pattern with such narrow pieces in front, that I had issues with that concept. So all my bones are more or less vertical, with no curvy bits.

A spiral steel bone sliding home
Cut those threads!

After the channels were sewn, I inserted the spiral steel bones I purchased at Lacis. You can buy them in different lengths from just 2 or 3" up to 18", possibly longer but that was the longest I bought. You can also cut your own from a roll of wire, and add your own tips - cheaper but challenging.

Spiral steel bones are flexible. We're not talking old-time, unforgiving whalebone here! (poor whales:-(  ) Also remember the definition of a bustier, I'm following, this is not a garment that imposes a shape on my body. 

~ ~ ~

* Web Resources

Dem Bones http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dem_Bones

Bustier is not a corset: http://meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2014/01/bustiers-not-corset-plus-free-printable.html

Whew! This is a long-time project for me. A previous Bustier post that links several other bustier posts I've written. http://www.meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2014/02/bustiers-excuse-me-arent-those-your.html

Lacis is in Berkley. They also sell via mail order

http://meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2014/03/field-trip-lacis-field-berkley-ca.html

Technicos: Slotted Seam, Cousin to the Channel Seam

Don't you love the look of this slotted seam? It's pretty straightforward to sew.

* Put right sides together, basted the seam
* Clipped bobbin thread about every fifth stitch
* Press seam open
* Cut my slot - the pretty under piece (the polka dots here)
* Centered the slot right under my seam line
* Topstitched the polka dotted slot on either side of the seam line - equidistant
* Pulled out my basting threads
* Press either to show the polka dots (butterfly style) or just a neat press with an occasional show throw of the slots due to body movement

A channel seam is similar except that you use a wider strip of show-through fabric and you lay the outer/either side fabric neatly on top of the channel show-through instead of basting.

A good source of directions for the slotted seam and other seam finishes is Reader's Digest, New Complete Guide to Sewing. You can find this book affordably used as well as new. Or maybe you have a public library that has it!