In my last post,
Summer of Jeans Sewing, I described my plan for learning to sew and fit jeans. I began by working on my flat-felled seam techniques.
How hard could that be? I've sewn these seams in light weight cotton a few times.
Hummmm, guess who needs to keep working on her flat-felled denim sample sewing?
I
started out with a review of flat-felled seams, In which
Russell Conte of Sewing Arts Center shows us how to complete a Flat Felled Seam to give your garments a fresh clean professional look.
Check it out at
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klyJYE4OcM0''
Another Resource to study http://oliverands.com/blog/2011/01/flat-felled-seams.html
Frankly, I figured i'd spend longer listening to Russell's well-done youtube video than I would sewing my first sample.
Har de har har!
~ ~ ~
Entonces, I got out my bits and pieces and
got the sewing going.
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Whoops! You sew WRONG Sides together when sewing a flat-felled seam. Time for a visit with Auntie Seamah Rippah. |
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That's right Wrong Sides together, and ready to seam |
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Remember to use Jeans Needles |
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Seam Press to embed stitches on both sides of sewn seam Butterfly open and press on both sides |
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Study worn-out Ready to Wear Jeans Oh, I see I want the topstitching on the back edge Actually - in my sample below - I did it the other way with the topstiching on the front edge. But that was the least of my challenges |
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I'm going to trim away here, As close to the seam as I can get But just on one side |
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Deciding that I wanted to have topstitching on the right of the Front seam - opposite of the Ready to Wear pair above!-, I trimmed the front Seam Allowance, so that the Back Seam Allowance Would wrap around, over, and encase the front which would mean I'd topstitch on the front Seam Allowance edge |
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Here, I folded the back seam allowance over and around the front |
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Then glued it down so the seam wouldn't move while I topstitched |
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How close to the seam allowance did the Ready to Wear folks do their topstitching? An eighth of an inch. No - it didn't occur to me until I made my graph paper model (below) that they probably didn't sew a 5/8 inch seam allowance like I did! |
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OK, that means I sew here |
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I'll position my left presser foot toe on top of the seam, to keep my line of topstitching straight |
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Hope this orange topstiching thread is the right stuff It's Gutterman, heavy weight topstitching, but it doesn't specifically say it's for jeans.... |
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Hummmm No matter what I did when I started (and re-started) The fabric didn't move well when I began sewing But, as you see on the scrap piece, it sews fine on a single layer And I've sewn this same fabric into shorts, so I know it should sew up Is it the glue? |
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Uh oh.... That eighth of an inch topstitching ddn't really catch the seam |
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I added a second line of topstitching to fell the rest of the seam And golly, my topstitching wasn't straight, though I thought I was watching the presser foot toe carefully on both stitching passes |
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Time to get out the graph paper and think this thing through!
Gee, it sure sounded easy before I actually tried it!
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